“A s’more needs a marshmallow!” That’s what my 15-year-old son insisted when we brainstormed potential s’more combinations.

The term marshmallow comes from the mallow plant, which thrives in marshes and is both medicinal and edible. In ancient times, its root was boiled with honey to make a thick mixture that was used as a medicine to treat things like sore throat and coughs. In the late 1800s, candy companies replaced the mallow with gelatin.

These days, the whipping agent used to manufacture marshmallow foam contains protein, either gelatin (made from animal or fish collagen), agar (algae based), egg whites, or soy protein mixed with carrageenan.

This essential ingredient of a classic s’more has inspired an ongoing debate in my circle for years. Is it the interior, or what holds the other ingredients together? I’ve even hosted taste-testing parties to sample possibilities.

For this experiment, I suggested a savory adaptation. My son was excited about the mozzarella cheese idea but wondered if we could sub a salty cracker for the sweet graham.

Our family of four owned a travel trailer for almost six years and made the most of these campfire creations along scenic routes while driving to and from my home state of Michigan.

While growing up in the snowy Midwest, the first bonfire of spring always signaled summer days ahead. Now, my two teens go to Ojai Valley School where s’mores are a highlight and comfort during Outdoor Ed. adventures.

I’ve always enjoyed experimenting with s’mores. Why not? The standard combo seems too simple. This spring, cousins joined us in Oak View for an official s’more survey. We sat around the gas fire pit on our deck to practice the art of roasting. My 13-year-old daughter recommends getting a marshmallow just close enough to the fire “so it sizzles.” She likes hers to have a nice tan, no burn.

THE CHALLENGE

My son and I came up with four signature s’mores to vote on: Nutella and banana (protein rich and “healthy”); PBJ (a classic); candy (other than plain chocolate); and a caprese creation (mozzarella, tomato and basil with a salty cracker).

The crackers we used were honey grahams and stone-ground wheat. For marshmallows, which we decided were essential for all the variations, we offered regular Jet-Puffed, Dandies (a vegan option), coconut covered (the gelatin made from fish) and homemade (recipe on page 10). Because the party took place on Easter weekend, we also roasted Peeps.

WINNER WINNER

The data revealed that people preferred the homemade marshmallow, which was prepared in advance the previous night. Even the vegetarian in attendance approved of these gelatin-derived morsels! Some mentioned that they melted nicely—like marshmallow creme or chewy mochi. One person said the confection tasted “milder, not too sweet.” It is worth noting that for the vanilla we used Vainilla Premium Pure Natural, purchased in Mazatlan, Mexico.

The winning graham-cracker–marshmallow combinations included Nutella with optional banana; Reese’s peanut-butter cups (both milk and white chocolate); and jam (without the peanut butter).

As for the caprese–wheat-cracker sandwich, we cut the tomato, kept the basil and added hot honey. Granted, the salty-sweet combo tasted better if the mozzarella was roasted. Disclaimer: One cousin did not care for the caprese with marshmallow in it. I suppose s’more palates are subjective. Still, others enjoyed the sweet-savory snack.

Peeps were not paired with any chocolate or crackers, but the warm, caramelized Easter treat resulted in two thumbs up from guests. The coconut marshmallow tied for second place, also eaten without accompaniment.

THE CRACKER MATTERS LESS

It turns out that in the early 1900s, saltine crackers were used to sandwich a buttered marshmallow before the graham (a type of coarsely ground wheat flour) cracker variation caught on. The saltine sandwiches, called “Marshmallow Marguerites,” were heated in the broiler and eaten at luncheons. Later, in the 1920s, Girl Scouts made the modern recipe popular. Everyone wanted “some more”—hence the name. And nowadays, s’more is a nostalgic flavor used in a variety of snacks. So, my son was right. Technically, a s’more requires a marshmallow.

Whether you are camping, having a barbecue or need something a bit more upscale, s’mores are an infinitely adaptable summer treat, and with National S’more Day coming up on August 10, you have time to consider your own creative options.

IT’S TIME TO EXPERIMENT!

Perhaps you are wondering about the original marshmallow made with marshmallow root. To give it a try, purchase marshmallow root from an herbal apothecary. The day before making your marshmallows, you will need to make a marshmallow root infusion: Combine about 3 tablespoons dried marshmallow root and 2 cups cold water in a jar. Leave for 6-8 hours, shaking the sealed jar occasionally. Strain the root out through a fine mesh sieve or cheesecloth. Use the infused water in place of the water in the recipes on the following pages.

Want to make flavored marshmallows? You can simply swap out the extract added in the last part of the mixing process. Try orange or lemon extract, but add the zest of a whole orange or lemon at the same time. Almond extract works great for an amaretto marshmallow. For a coffee flavor, swap out ½ cup of water in the sugar mixture for a cold brew coffee and add a teaspoon of coffee extract during the mix. These were what we tested, but feel free to try other extracts and let us know how it works!