Editor's Letter Fall 2019
“Moving toward a more harmonious way of life and greater resilience requires our active participation.”
—Sandor Katz in The Art of Fermentation
When I first thought of doing a fermentation-themed issue, my science-nerd self giddily imagined stories chock-full of deep discussions of bacteria, fungi and gut health, the natural microbial diversity of nature and the exciting new research that is published nearly daily these days. After looking into the blank stares of the Edible team, my practical side took over and we compromised by focusing on luscious recipes that spark curiosity—and perhaps some trepidation in beginning fermenters—with a little bit of science on the side. (See the glorious sourdough on page 26.)
Early on in my years of playing with fermentation, I tried to make a “ginger bug” soda (a concoction made by fermenting fresh ginger, water and sugar), flavored with fresh pomegranate juice. I didn’t know then that pomegranate is a fast fermenter. I also didn’t realize how quickly ginger bugs can become fizzy. Just 12 hours into the process, I thought that maybe I should crack the lid to see if some of the carbon dioxide needed to escape.
I’m not sure if it was the loud popping sound or my scream, as bubbly red liquid shot high out of the top of the jar, that sent my youngest child under the table and brought the rest of my family running into the room. I remember standing in shock, droplets falling off of my nose, from my hair and down from the ceiling. I think the whole family stopped short in astonishment, not sure how to take in the morbid-looking scene.
The incident, now deemed “BOMB-egranate,” left a permanent stain on the ceiling and a lasting impression about home fermenting experiments.
What I find fascinating is that most home fermenters have some kind of explosive story. For example, Michelle, whose fall recipes are shared on page 13, told me about a lacto-fermented salsa that was so effervescent that the jar exploded in the fridge. Or Amy, whose story of food exploration is on page 32, had a bottle of water kefir blast all over her entire small kitchen upon opening.
And yet still we persist—which is actually an important characteristic for any kind of bacterial experimentation. Not because we are seeking danger, but because the benefits and joys of consuming your own creation, taking an extra step into union with nature, are spectacularly unmatched.
As much as I love all things fermented, my favorite thing is still hearing people’s stories of dreams that come to life. People like the Glovers in Ventura (page 36), who have created a place for community with food from the soil to feed the soul; and Chef Talin (page 46), whose dreams are still being realized in part by her pop-up specialty dinners where guests experience a thoughtfully designed contemplative meal.
Like a good ferment, dreams can sometimes take time to come to their fullness of flavor. My hope for you, as you read this issue, is that you will be inspired to experiment in the kitchen (with a little caution!) and also reach for your dreams.
